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Shoes & Accessories

Sneaker Midsoles Die Before The Uppers Do

The foam layer that provides cushioning degrades invisibly with use, which is why athletic shoes stop working long before they look worn out.

Close-up of elegant leather shoes, wristwatch, belt, and tie on striped fabric. Perfect for men's fashion.
Close-up of elegant leather shoes, wristwatch, belt, and tie on striped fabric. Perfect for men's fashion. · Photo via Pexels

A pair of sneakers can look nearly new and provide almost nothing underfoot. The component that fails first is the one nobody inspects.

The midsole is doing the work

Between the outsole that contacts the ground and the upper that holds the foot sits a foam layer, and that layer absorbs and returns the force of each step.

It is made of a compressible foam whose cushioning comes from air trapped in a cellular structure that deforms under load and springs back.

Everything a cushioned shoe does for the wearer happens in that layer. The upper only positions the foot above it.

Compression cycles, not miles, cause the failure

Each step compresses the foam, and each compression damages a small number of cell walls. Over enough cycles the structure loses its ability to rebound.

The foam ends up thinner and firmer, transmitting more impact to the foot while looking essentially the same from the outside.

Because the damage accumulates by count rather than by distance, a shoe worn all day for light activity ages faster than the wear on its outsole suggests.

The signs are subtle and physical

Diagonal compression lines along the side of the midsole indicate the foam has taken a set rather than returning to shape.

Pressing a thumb into the midsole gives a rough comparison against a newer pair, since degraded foam feels harder and less springy.

The most reliable indicator is not visual at all: aches in the feet, shins or knees after distances that were previously comfortable, in shoes that still look fine.

Storage degrades foam without any wear

Foam also breaks down chemically over time, and heat accelerates the process considerably.

A pair kept for years in a hot garage or a car trunk can crumble the first time it is worn, having never been used.

Buying old stock at a discount carries this risk, which is why heavily discounted athletic shoes from several seasons back are not always the value they appear to be.

Rotation extends the usable life

Foam recovers some of its structure when left unloaded, so a shoe worn on alternate days regains more between wearings than one worn daily.

Two pairs alternated therefore last longer in total than the same two pairs worn consecutively, which is an unusual property among garments.

It also means the common practice of wearing one pair until it dies and then buying another produces the shortest possible total life from the money spent.

Noor Haddad
Style Director, GetStyleGo

Noor worked eight years in womenswear buying before deciding she preferred writing about clothes to ordering them in bulk. She owns eleven pairs of shoes and thinks that is four too many.

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