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Colour & Pattern

Print Placement And The Garment Cut Around It

A printed design can be applied to fabric before cutting or positioned onto a finished panel, and which method was used determines how the garment looks on a body.

Stylish woman in urban setting wearing a scarf, hat, and boots, perfect for fall fashion inspiration.
Stylish woman in urban setting wearing a scarf, hat, and boots, perfect for fall fashion inspiration. · Photo via Pexels

Two shirts with the same printed motif can differ entirely in how the print sits. The difference lies in whether the pattern was printed onto yardage or placed onto a specific piece.

All-over printing treats fabric as continuous

Most patterned fabric is printed as a continuous roll with a repeating design, then cut into garment pieces wherever the layout is most efficient.

The pattern therefore falls wherever the cutting happens to place it, and no two garments from the same run are identical in placement.

This is efficient and it is why an all-over print can be produced at any price point, but it means the design has no relationship to the body underneath.

Placement printing positions the design deliberately

A placed print is applied after the pieces are cut, or onto marked positions on the yardage, so the motif lands at a chosen point.

Graphic tees are the obvious case, but the technique also appears on scarves, dresses with a designed border, and garments where a motif is centered.

Because each piece is handled individually, placement printing costs more and is much less tolerant of size grading, since the design must be scaled or repositioned for each size.

Scale interacts with the size run

A pattern printed at one scale is applied to every size, so the same motif covers proportionally more of a small garment and less of a large one.

A print that reads as a fine texture on one size can read as a bold statement on another, which is a common source of surprise when ordering online.

Some brands adjust scale across sizes, but doing so requires separate printing screens or files and is not common outside of higher-priced production.

Placement changes where the eye stops

A dense or high-contrast area of print draws attention to whatever part of the body it sits on, regardless of what the design is.

Because all-over prints land randomly, this happens by chance, which is why two identical garments can look quite different on the same person.

Checking where the busiest area falls, rather than judging the pattern as a flat design, is the useful test in a fitting room.

Print durability follows the method

Fabric printed before cutting has the dye applied into the yarn structure, so it wears at the same rate as the fabric.

Many placed graphics are applied as a layer sitting on top of the fabric, which flexes differently and eventually cracks or peels.

That distinction is visible by touch: a print you can feel as a distinct surface will fail before the garment does, while one you cannot feel is part of the cloth.

Noor Haddad
Style Director, GetStyleGo

Noor worked eight years in womenswear buying before deciding she preferred writing about clothes to ordering them in bulk. She owns eleven pairs of shoes and thinks that is four too many.

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