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Shoes & Accessories

Hats, And Why Most People Think They Cannot Wear One

Hats fail on crown height, brim width and head circumference rather than on face shape, and nearly all of that is a fitting problem rather than a suitability one.

Stylish woman in urban setting wearing a scarf, hat, and boots, perfect for fall fashion inspiration.
Stylish woman in urban setting wearing a scarf, hat, and boots, perfect for fall fashion inspiration. · Photo via Pexels

Almost everyone who says hats do not suit them has tried a small number of hats in the wrong size. The variables that decide whether a hat works are measurable.

Circumference is the first thing wrong

Hats are sized to head circumference and the range is wide. A hat that is too large sits low and shades the face; one too small perches and looks separate from the head.

Most casual hats are sold in one or two sizes, so a substantial share of wearers are trying something that does not fit them at all.

Measuring around the head just above the ears takes a moment and converts hat shopping from an aesthetic gamble into an ordinary sizing exercise.

Crown height changes the proportion

A tall crown adds visible height and reads as more dramatic. A shallow one sits close and reads as understated, and the same brim looks completely different on each.

Crown height is what makes hats look costume-like on some people. It is almost always the tall crown rather than the hat itself doing that.

Many felt hats can have the crown reshaped or lowered by a hatter, which is a small adjustment that changes the whole impression.

Brim width relates to shoulder width

A brim wider than the shoulders looks oversized regardless of the face. One much narrower than the head looks undersized for the same reason.

The workable range is roughly between those two limits, and it is fairly generous. Within it, brim width is a matter of preference rather than of what suits.

Brim angle matters as much as width. A brim turned down at the front shortens the face; one turned up opens it, and many hats allow either.

How it sits is a habit, not a rule

A hat pushed back on the head reads as casual and exposes the forehead. Worn level, it reads deliberate. Neither is wrong, but the difference is often unintentional.

The band should sit just above the ears and roughly level all round. A hat that has to be repositioned constantly is usually a size problem being managed by hand.

Sizing tape inside the band adjusts a hat down by a small amount, which is how a hatter fits between standard sizes.

Function explains most of the styles

Hat shapes originate in specific purposes: wide brims for sun, close crowns for wind, structured felts for rain, knitted caps for insulation.

Choosing by the conditions rather than by the look tends to produce hats that are worn. A hat bought for weather has a reason to be on the head every time.

It also resolves the self-consciousness, because a hat that is doing an obvious job does not read as a statement. That is usually the actual obstacle.

Noor Haddad
Style Director, GetStyleGo

Noor worked eight years in womenswear buying before deciding she preferred writing about clothes to ordering them in bulk. She owns eleven pairs of shoes and thinks that is four too many.

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