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Fit & Tailoring

The Order Alterations Have To Happen In

Adjustments to a garment interact, so doing them in the wrong sequence means paying for the same work twice and sometimes losing the fabric to do it at all.

Professional tailor takes measurements for a bespoke suit fitting in a tailoring workshop.
Professional tailor takes measurements for a bespoke suit fitting in a tailoring workshop. · Photo via Pexels

When several alterations are needed on one garment, the sequence is not a matter of convenience. Each change alters the reference points the next one depends on.

Structural changes come before cosmetic ones

Anything that moves a shoulder seam, a sleeve or a side seam changes where the hems and cuffs fall relative to the body.

Setting a sleeve length before adjusting the shoulder means the sleeve length is measured from a point that is about to move.

So the rule is that alterations affecting the position of the garment on the body are always done first, and lengths are set afterward.

Circumference before length

Taking in a waist or a side seam pulls fabric diagonally and changes how a garment hangs, which shifts the hemline slightly.

On a skirt or a dress the effect is pronounced, because narrowing the body raises the hem at the sides relative to the front.

Hemming after that change is settled produces a level hem. Hemming before it produces one that dips, and correcting it means redoing the hem.

The garment has to be washed first

Cotton and linen shrink on their first wash, and the shrinkage is greatest along the length.

A garment hemmed before it has been laundered will be shorter after the first wash, and the fabric removed is not recoverable.

Washing the item as it will normally be cleaned, then taking it for alteration, removes this entirely and costs only a delay.

Seam allowance limits what remains possible

Every alteration consumes some of the reserve fabric inside a seam, and once it is gone the change cannot be reversed.

A garment taken in substantially cannot be let out again later, so a body that may change should be fitted conservatively rather than closely.

Asking a tailor how much allowance remains after a proposed change is worth doing, because it determines what options exist in a year.

Some things should be left until last or not done

Buttonholes, decorative topstitching and lining work are finishing operations, and doing them before the shape is settled means undoing them.

Cutting away excess fabric rather than folding it under is likewise a final step, and a good tailor will delay it until the fit is confirmed.

Where a garment needs many changes at once, the honest answer is sometimes that it is the wrong garment, since the cumulative cost and the risk of a compromised result both rise with each additional operation.

bespokemade to measuresuitstailoring
Gil Mowatt
Menswear & Tailoring, GetStyleGo

Gil is a third-generation tailor who writes about fit from the inside of the garment outward. He can tell you what is wrong with a jacket from across a room and will, if asked.

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