For designer Arthur Avellano, the main story around his fall collection was the R&D that he’s been putting into his signature material, latex.
A ‘90s “Matrix”-like vibe emerged from this lineup of sleek dusters, liquid-looking sheaths and tailored trousers paired with bodysuits. Avellano said he’d intended a back-to-basics collection that would bring back a sense of elegance, which fell in step with the direction taken by many other labels this season.
“Because it’s latex, I wanted something very chic and sexy as it’s essential to stay away from anything that would make it vulgar,” he said.
Backstage, he was keen to point out the technical evolutions with latex, rather than the silhouettes, that had just taken a turn on the runway, including snakeskin effects; a 3D-printed honeycomb, with some iterations hand-studded with Swarovski crystals; and latex-coated Lycra, used for easier daywear options but also workable for shoes.
To further convince editors, he went on to list the advantages of the medical-grade latex he was working with, from being hypoallergenic as well as a natural cruelty-free material that could age in the same way as leather.
The bulk of his clientele remains in the made-to-order segment, with red-carpet and stage outfits top in his order book. Case in point, Noah Cyrus, who sat front row at Avellano’s fall show. But with this lineup, he’s made a strong case for a touch of latex fitting snugly into a daywear wardrobe.