Buoyed by her nomination as a semifinalist for the LVMH Prize for Young Designers, Veronica Leoni presented her Quira collection in Paris after three seasons in Milan. 

The designer, who cut her teeth with Jil Sander and Phoebe Philo, said it was her most personal offering yet. 

“I spent the first three seasons defining the outer borders of the brand, so I was trying to enrich the vocabulary as much as possible in order to create possibilities for me in terms of creativity, but this season, I felt strong enough in a way to go to the core of it, and really reduce as much as possible the ingredients,” she said.

Working with a mostly black palette, she focused on shape with layered silhouettes that gave off a protective aura. A crinkled black coat engulfed the body, while an ample ruched tunic dress exposed a single shoulder. Felted wool, washed military cotton and tumbled silk gave garments a natural ease.

“I feel in a way that it’s a very strong point of view on style, the black itself, and gives a very sharp point of view on modern womanhood. I think it’s quite necessary at the moment and I feel a responsibility there,” she explained.

While her blend of “strictness and sensuality” targets a specific kind of customer, the collection was full of subtle objects of desire, like a beige V-neck with an eyecatching dented neckline, or an LBD with chopped sleeves that felt modern, yet timeless. 

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