Ujoh RTW Fall 2023 – WWD

Inspired by a performance staged in 2002 by Japanese artist Yukio Nakagawa — in his 90s at the time — and the notion of a lifelong quest for artistic improvement, Mitsuru Nishizaki said he wanted to press reset and lay the groundwork for his label Ujoh’s future.

An expert in pattern cutting, his precise lineup was an ode to what tailoring can be, with layer upon layer of interplaying genderless shapes — his designs were intended to be combined and styled indeterminately, thanks to strapping details and metal hardware that became integral features in his silhouettes.

The olive gray and navy chalk stripes that are the label’s signature were complemented with gentle shades of dusty pink, teal green, burgundy and black, with thick wools providing density and accentuating structure.

Halves of cropped jackets crossed the front of the body at an angle. Other looks had wrapped overskirts that imitated a jacket’s length. Suspenders created the illusion of a jacket in two parts, its bottom also a little like a wide skirt. Pants were doubled up, a cropped pair with press-stud sides styled over a second, more streamlined style.

The muted color palette highlighted the details of the designs, but was underpinned and woven together by abstract, understated prints inspired by Nakagawa’s work, representing petals of light and giant red flower motifs.