FLOWING LOCKS: “It’s more eccentric, more eclectic, and celebrating that sense of play as well,” Victoria Beckham said after her fall 2023 runway show. “I love the tailoring; it is really celebrating the journey that the tailor goes through showing all of the details.”
This season she added hair as a texture, flowing from dresses, used as accents and even draped over models’ clavicles in soft waves as a necklace. Beckham was inspired by works she had seen at Art Basel Miami a few years ago to play with the unusual texture, incorporating it into crocheted dresses.
There were also several looks upturned with wire for an undulating hem.
“I always wanted to dream and when I was standing backstage and I saw those dresses come out with all of the details, with the feather detail and turn exposing the lining, for me that was everything. That’s me dreaming, really.”
The show came at a triumphant moment, just following the announcement that the brand has turned a profit for the first time.
Most of the Beckham clan was there to celebrate, with David, sons Cruz and Brooklyn, along with his wife Nicola Peltz, and young daughter Harper. Cruz was dressed in head-to-toe VB logo denim with a resin finish, and a crossbody strap bag. Beckham told WWD he had designed the jeans and snap-front jacket coordinates outfit himself, while Cruz whispered to front row guests that he has been encouraging his mom to add menswear.
The busy designer didn’t seem too keen to add more to her plate, joking: “Well, then maybe Cruz should be the creative director of it.”
Beckham’s longtime best friend Eva Longoria flew in just for the day to see the show, and had also been at the brand’s debut last season. “I thought, how is she ever going to top that show, and I think she just did it,” she said.
“I’m literally texting her already, ‘That coat is mine.’ But I’m lucky that I just get to grab her stuff. I go into her closet and borrow.”
Longoria was headed directly to the airport to prepare for the SXSW film festival, where her directorial debut “Flamin’ Hot” will premiere. “It’s very exciting, nervous excitement. I’m very nervous,” she said of anticipating the March 11 screening. — Rhonda Richford
ALIEN CHIC: Maddie Ziegler has been making the most of fashion weeks, attending shows in New York before hitting Paris for the Acne Studios and Giambattista Valli shows.
She’s been taking some bold beauty risks, bleaching her brows earlier in the week. “I felt like I was a completely different person, and it was so much fun to just be a chameleon and change into something completely different. I felt like an alien, but in a good way.”
She was back to brown brows by Friday afternoon after a morning dye session.
The dancer has also been taking some sartorial risks with more masculine-style suiting for the shows, but sported a green-and-gold miniskirt set, topped with a pink satin coat. “I’ve really been playing up the masculinity. Recently I’ve been more tomboy, which has been really fun,” she said, but she reveled in the chance to put on something more feminine for the Friday show.
There were plenty of looks to choose from no matter which way she’s feeling, as Valli showed not only sequined and slinky gowns, full skirts and lots of lace, but also knitwear on men that could bring the comfort for anyone.
Ziegler will be premiering her new film “Bloody Hell” at SXSW, the biographical tale of writer Molly McGlynn being diagnosed with a reproductive condition. “It’s an emotionally challenging role but I’m very excited for people to see that side of me.”
Ziegler sat front row with Chinese superstar Fan Bingbing, who has returned to fashion week after a long absence, while the fashion crowd waited a painful 40 minutes for the show to get on the road. — R.R.
FASHION SHOWCASE: Seven Ukrainian designers will showcase their fall 2023 collections during Paris Fashion Week from Friday through Tuesday, based at 7 Rue d’Argenteuil.
With the support of USAID Competitive Economy Program in Ukraine, the designers will showcase demi-couture, ready-to-wear and footwear collections.
Among the brands are Frolov, a “couture-to-wear” brand; Kachorovska, the largest Ukrainian footwear brand, My Sleeping Gypsy, a sustainable brand, and Chereshnivska, a Ukraine-based unisex and sustainable brand that features hand-drawn prints using recycled materials. In addition are brands Katerina Kvit, a label that makes leather products, Paskal, a high-fashion and rtw brand, and Olena Dats’, a fashion brand that makes evening dresses.
The project was curated by Jen Sidary, who has been working with Ukraine’s fashion industry since 2020, before the war, and developed the idea to showcase the country’s fashion industry at fashion weeks for the first time in September 2021. Sidary also launched a global e-commerce website, angelsforfashion.com, built for Ukrainian designers in April 2022, supporting 30-plus brands to ensure they survive the war.
“I have huge respect for all the people of Ukraine and for how they are adapting their lives to survive and continue to grow,” Sidary said. “I have discovered a hidden gem which is where much of the world’s history began but many of us just didn’t know it. Ukraine’s fashion industry is one I want to work with for the rest of my career.”
This is the fifth time USAID Competitive Economy Program has supported this project and its second season in Paris. — Lisa Lockwood
NOT CAMERA SHY: Notoriously reclusive musician Bob Dylan is the latest artist to sit for Hedi Slimane in his “Portrait Of” series for Celine, in which he lenses artists, musicians and actors spanning the generations.
Slimane shot the legendary folk musician in his hometown of Malibu, California, in December, wearing designs from the Celine Homme collection.
Celine Homme’s spring 2023 campaign, showcasing skaters in an outdoor setting, was also shot there in December.
While 81-year-old Dylan, who won the Nobel Prize for Literature in 2016 for his contribution to songwriting thanks to hits including “Blowin’ in the Wind” and “Mr. Tambourine Man,” continues to tour onstage, he otherwise rarely appears in front of the camera, with the exception of concert footage.
One exception was Richard Marquand’s 1987 movie “Hearts of Fire,” in which he played a former rock star-turned-recluse.
The musician has nevertheless met with success in recent years for his work as a visual artist and author, and his most recent book, “Philosophy of Modern Song,” was released in November.
In one of the two black-and-white shots released, Dylan poses in a rocking chair in dappled sunlight in a black leather jacket and shades, a Gibson electric guitar in hand. In the second, he is seen with an acoustic guitar, against a dark background.
Slimane does not just champion a rock aesthetic in his collections. His links with the music world go way back. He is known for spanning genres and picturing young unknowns as often as music legends in his pictures.
Recent images in his “Portraits Of” series for Celine include Julian Casablancas of The Strokes, Paul Banks and Martin Rev.
In the past, music legends including Dylan’s peers Lou Reed and Keith Richards have sat for the designer and photographer, as have Marilyn Manson, the late Amy Winehouse and Pete Doherty, for example. — Alex Wynne
PUP PEACOATS: Fashion designer Jeffrey Banks will assume the role of chief creative officer of K9Wear, a pet fashion company. He will be responsible for K9Wear designs, his own line, as well as all brand collaborations.
Banks has been involved with K9Wear since 2020 as a design collaborator and has designed dog clothing for the company, including a jean jacket, a waxed cotton quilted jacket, peacoat and a wool duffle coat.
K9Wear has created the first patent-pending hybrid dog harness with clothes over it, meant so the dog doesn’t know it is wearing clothes.
“We’re truly honored to have such a legendary fashion designer at the forefront of our company’s designs,” said James Straggas, founder of K9Wear. “His creativity, insight, talent and innate fashion sense will take K9to the next level — and beyond.”
Banks started out as a design assistant to both Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein before launching his own signature Jeffrey Banks Signature Men’s Wear collection in 1977, consisting of tailored clothing, dress furnishings and sportswear. He subsequently added boyswear in 1982 and womenswear in 1984. He has also been a designer for Merona Sport Men’s, Women’s and Kids, and is the recipient of two Coty Awards and a CFDA Special Anniversary Award, which he received last November.
“It’s exciting to be a part of the pet world business,” Banks said. “K9Wear products are designed with tremendous integrity, which is why I am thrilled to be working with them.”
Under Banks’ direction, K9Wear plans to offer dog leashes, beds, toys and “owner and me” outfits, in addition to the company’s signature military-grade breathable mesh harness.
Banks will be involved with the K9Wear line, his own line, as well as collaborations with brands such as Badgley Mischka, Josie Natori, True Religion and Tommy Bahama. Several brands are already on board, “and more brands want to join us,” Banks said. He said the company is based in New York and manufactures both in New York and overseas.
K9Wear recently teamed up with Frank Cammarata, a New England businessman and principal and chief executive officer of The Enjoiya Group, for a Series A meant to enable the company “to grow at an accelerated rate,” Straggas said. — L.L.