Following last season’s reset to a quieter brand of chic, Lanvin designer Bruno Sialelli’s coed fall collection focused on elevated everyday dressing, tailoring, chemise dresses and subtle nods to the house’s 1920s heyday.

There was no discernible theme or set save for the soaring arches inside the College des Bernardins.

The opening black dress, draped from the center, with delicate buttons down the back, worn with multicolored crystal boots, set the tone for the understated lineup, in which Sialelli left it to the accessories to add whimsy.

Sharply cut double-layer blazer dresses, slash pleat skirts, classic tailored coats and sleek glossy croc outerwear in maroon, bottle green, dark plum, chocolate brown or black were rich-looking, but it’s not clear why customers would go specifically to Lanvin for them. A softer, swingier tufted purple princess coat seemed more on-message in terms of the brand’s romantic and feminine heritage.

Ditto the deep V-front cocktail chemises, one rustling with transparent beading, another in red sequins with a matching triangle bra top. A pair of studded, fishnet gowns with fringed hems were also compelling.

Menswear was also a bit all over the place, with quirky embroidered turtleneck dickies, leather hoodies and boxy suiting being the strongest propositions. Sialelli’s use of color, including a joyful highlighter peach hue, stood out. But overall, the collection needs a stronger point of view to stay above the fray.

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