There was a cool breeze blowing at Leonard Paris, with creative director Georg Lux offering a sportier, more relaxed lineup for fall. His destination was the ski slopes, informing padded silhouettes that modernized the brand’s heritage prints with a fun twist, cozy fake fur snow boots and fluffy knit versions of the label’s slinky animal-print dresses, offered in candy pink and cream.

He mined the archives for a vibrant print that nodded to the height of the Flower Power movement, worked on jersey jumpsuits and flowing dresses in a multitude of shapes, some with billowing sleeves, others with wide ruffled elastic waistbands and rows of little silver buttons.

Cherry blossom motifs and kimono shapes could be seen as a nod toward the brand’s new ownership — its long-standing partner Sankyo Seiko bought Leonard from the founding Tribouillard family last summer, as reported. “I love working with the Japanese, they’re very respectful and they love all that’s beautiful and luxurious, and that counts,” said Lux backstage.

Elsewhere, he infused the collection with folklore elements like floral embroideries on statement felt capes. “That’s my Germanic side,” he explained with a laugh.

Lux is charged with modernizing the heritage label’s image little by little — changes will reportedly be more visible starting with the spring 2024 collection. His fall collection was a step in a new direction, riffing on the brand’s heritage with a lighter hand and an irreverent touch.

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