lsabel Marant always brings the party.
The runway became a club Thursday night at Palais Royale with a raucous performance by Lulu Van Trapp that had singer Rebecca Baby crowd-surfing and show guests not wanting to leave.
Baby and her band were singing the mantra for the fall collection over and over — “desire, disorder,” and the designer channeled both into a sexy coed lineup that was wearable as ever with a new, sophisticated edge.
The brand took a break from the print-heavy boho trend and entered a more refined, dressed-up mode, with graphic-looking cuts, lots of leather and body-hugging knits, some shimmering with metallic thread or crystals.
“We wanted to make something simple but strong,” said artistic director Kim Bekker, backstage at Marant’s side.
Knit dresses were slashed or zipper detailed, with swashbuckling over knee boots or colored footless tights elongating the leg. Glossy black or cherry red leather dresses, miniskirts, oversize biker jackets and duster coats also looked sharp and sleek with a female power vibe.
The new denim silhouette with contrasting yoke, low pockets and baggy legs brought to mind vintage ’90s Girbaud jeans. Worn with tonal strong shoulder boyfriend blazers, quilted jackets or open-knit chunky sweaters, they made for a more elevated take on denim dressing.
Also refreshing, in addition to their usual high-wattage catwalkers, the designers brought in all-ages models including Liya Kebede, Delfine Bafort and Irina Shayk.
“For me, since I’m not so young anymore, I was feeling bad showing only young girls,” said Marant, 55, who founded the business in 1994, adding, “We wanted to show the brand is going through the different generations.”
“We are different generations but we feel each other so well, and we see different generations wearing the clothes,” said Bekker, of the brand that defined French cool for many women in the ’90s and 2000s, and is now for their children. “The same with the guys.”