Alexis Mabille RTW Fall 2023 – WWD

It’s a colorful season for Alexis Mabille. Translating the vitamin-infused theme he showed on the runway during couture into off-the-rack eveningwear silhouettes, he played with shapes and accentuated volumes, adding flexibility and freeing up the figure for movement in the process.

Naming the collection “Rainbow Drop,” Mabille worked with his suppliers to create exactly the intense — at times neon — shades he desired, their depth shining on full-skirted radzimir designs and flou numbers, like a handkerchief dress in billows of sheer satin. A collared smoking dress in a deep green fluid fabric offered a more casual take on a house classic, while a yellow silk gown with a full skirt and a shawl top that wrapped around the shoulders offered the Old Hollywood charm his customers look for.

Corsetry was less of a feature than for his couture pieces, but there were also designs accentuating the bodice thanks to astute darting, for example, while Mabille’s signature bow details highlighted the shoulders on a vivid tangerine-colored dress.

He only deviated from the bright leitmotiv in one design on show, a flowing olive green piece with black lace details on the bust. But even that shade was deceptive — it was achieved by integrating a dark thread into the weave, a technique that the couturier explained could be offered for any of the designs on show, allowing buyers options for differentiating their offer, upping the exclusivity factor.